The world of cheese-making is a fascinating one, and few embody the art and tradition quite like Philippa Abela. At 80 years old, she continues to craft her unique cheeses, a testament to her dedication and the rich history of Maltese cheese-crafting. But what makes her story truly captivating is the personal journey and the cultural significance of her craft.
A Maltese Legacy in Queensland
Philippa Abela's story begins with a journey from Malta to Australia in 1950, driven by the post-war economic challenges. Her mother, a courageous woman, brought her and her sisters to a new life in Habana, North Queensland, where they settled on a cane farm. It was here that the foundation of their dairy farming and cheese-making tradition was laid.
The family's dairy cows supplied milk to the local butter factory, and it was through her mother's teachings that Philippa learned the art of cheese-making. She perfected soft ricotta-like cheese for pastizzis and a firm, vinegar-pickled pepper cheese, two staples of Maltese cuisine. Today, she has expanded her repertoire to about 13 types of cheese, but the original two remain crowd favorites in her community.
A Slow, Natural Approach
Abela's cheese-making philosophy revolves around a well-fed cow living a relaxed life, clean equipment, and precise temperature control. She believes that each cheese has its own process, and learning never stops. Her basic fresh cheese-making process involves straining whey after stirring and meticulously monitoring the temperature for about 30 minutes. The remaining curds are versatile, ready to eat or use in cooking.
A Shift Towards Artisanal Cheese
The rise of slow food trends and a growing skepticism of 'convenience culture' have contributed to a surge in interest in artisanal cheese-making. Michael Zannella, the general manager of Cheeselinks, a supplier of cheese-making ingredients and equipment, notes a significant growth in his business, particularly in the retail side, which caters to hobbyists and small farmers. This shift reflects a broader consumer preference for craftsmanship and the story behind the food they consume.
A Lifelong Ritual and Contribution
Despite stopping commercial dairying 30 years ago due to market deregulation, Abela's cheese-making remains an integral part of her life. She now feeds a dozen beef cattle, mows, and weeds, but the couple of milkers she retains allow her to continue her beloved craft. She doesn't sell her cheese commercially, but it is always in demand from friends and family, who appreciate the taste and the story behind her artisanal production.
In her words, 'I think you've got to contribute to society, you can't stay idle. I don't know what idle is.' This mindset, combined with her lifelong dedication to cheese-making, ensures that her legacy will continue to be cherished by those who appreciate the art of slow, natural cheese-crafting.
